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Presentation One-To-One

Onomatopee 154

The title One-to-One, a project by Elisa van Joolenrefers to the working method in which items of clothing are covered in black and blue ink and accordingly pressed on other pieces of clothing. Each item serves as a stamp, and is simultaneously being stamped on, thus creating a chain reaction making every One-To-One item both an original and a copy. As such the project One-to-One offers new perspectives on (re)production in fashion; it allows the viewer to look beyond the status conveyed by the label and see the actual, material properties of clothing.

One-to-One, as method, gives way to a new entity: it is both a fashionable wearable and a two-dimensional work. Besides the garments, the work also consists of paper sheets used in the process of pressing to block the ink from soaking the fabric. Together with the garments, this by-product of the pressing process subtly lays bare the essence of fashion: the weaving textures of the fabric, details such as zippers, seams and buttons, and brand logos.

At Onomatopee, the visitor is invited to wear the One-to-One garments. The printing sheets of the recently published One-to-One Reader are made into a fitting room. As such, Elisa van Joolen encourages the viewer to move beyond the static process of looking at fashion towards embodying it as well.
Exploring these dualities within fashion – the material versus the immaterial and fashion as an artefact versus fashion as an embodied experience – Van Joolen aims to open up perspectives on the role of (re)production within the fashion system and value creation in relation to the material and immaterial properties of our garments.

These threads are explored in a publication, released and available through Onomatopee – by diverse experts in the international field.

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One-To-One is part in 11''x 17'', an ongoing project that examines and challenges the fashion industry’s prevailing value systems and proposes new methods of production.

Agenda

Publication

Elisa van Joolen, 2018

One-to-One Reader

€ 28

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One-to-One -Part of 11'' x 17'’-refers to a working method in which items of clothing became large-sized printing tools, covered in black and blue ink. Each clothing item served as a stamp, and was simultaneously being stamped on, thus creating a chain reaction and making each clothing item an original and a copy. As such the project One-to-One offers new perspectives on reproduction – it allows us to look beyond the status conveyed by the label and see the actual, material properties of clothing.

Bringing together contributions by Amelia Groom, Ruby Hoette, Joke Robaard, T’ai Smith and Hanka van der Voet this reader explores some of the project’s core questions: What does it mean to copy in fashion? What if a garment could be both a copy and an original at the same time? What if reproduction and production are one and the same? This reader documents the process and outcomes of the One-to-One project as well as exploring the implications and possibilities of this unique working method in the broader context of the fashion system.

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Text Contributions by Amelia GroomT’ai Smith, Hanka van der Voet, Joke Robaard
Photography: One-to-One by R. Mariz, models by Blommers / Schumm. Exhibition views Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam, Patta Store, Zeedijk 60 by Gert Jan van Rooij. Exhibition views Museum Boijmans van Beuningen by Lotte Stekelenburg.
All other images and compilation by Elisa van Joolen
Text editing by Ruby Hoette
Image editing by Our Polite Society & Elisa van Joolen
Graphic Design by Our Polite Society 

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One-to-One Reader is part of 11” x 17”
11″x17” is an ongoing project that examines and challenges the fashion industry’s prevailing value systems and proposes new methods of production. The project began in 2013 with a series of conversations with representatives of various fashion brands including G-Star RAW, O’Neill, By Parra, moniquevanheist, and Nike. These companies then contributed by donating clothing and footwear in the form of samples, archival pieces and stock. A selection of these have undergone a process of cutting out, reconstructing and printing to become 11” x 17” Sweaters, Invert Footwear and One-to-One garments. 11” x 17” creates a network. It unites different categories of clothing and different values within fashion; an eclectic mixture of mid-market, second-hand, and high-end items.

Elisa van Joolen
lives and works in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. Her work has been recognised with a Talent Grant - Creative Industries Fund NL (2016-2017), Han Nefkens Award (2016) and Fulbright Award (2010) and she has been nominated for the Dutch Design Award (2013) and New Material Award (2014). She was artist in residence at Iaspis in Stockholm (2016). Elisa teaches at the Gerrit Rietveld Academie in Amsterdam.

Type
Softcover, dust-jacket
Dimensions
280 x 218 MM / 11 x 8.5 inches portrait
Pages
160
ISBN
978-94-91677-86-1
Editor
Elisa van Joolen
Author
Amelia Groom, T’ai Smith, Hanka van der Voet, Joke Robaard
Graphic
Our Polite Society
Artist
Elisa van Joolen
Language
English
Binding
sewn and glued
Paper
Cover: 250 gr. starline greyback with 90 gr. etibulk dust-jacket. Inside: 120 gr. plano plus, 90 gr. Magno gloss, 60 gr. Ibo One and 90 gr. Cyclus offset
Edition
1.250
Color
full color
Printer
Wilco, Amersfoort (NL)
Image specs
106 black/white images, 71 Full color, 41 duotone
Text editor
Ruby Hoette
more specs

THE PEOPLE WHO’VE WORKED ON THIS PROJECT

  • Elisa van Joolen fashion researcher, artist, editor, project coordinator website
  • Our Polite Society graphic designer website
  • Ruby Hoette fashion researcher, curator, theorist, editor, project coordinator website
  • T'ai Smith writer website
  • Amelia Groom critic website
  • Hanka van der Voet
  • Joke Robaard theorist
  • Blommers / Schumm photography (artist) website