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Onomatopee 95 / Cabinet project

"The cut ignores the world’s hardness and absoluteness so that it can make and unmake its representation, subjecting it to a whirlwind of furtive, momentary meanings that shun all mummified order." 

- Germano Celant

 by Elisa van Joolen is an on-going project that examines and challenges the fashion industry’s prevailing value systems and proposes new methods of production. The project began in 2013 with a series of conversations with representatives of various fashion brands including G-Star, O’Neill, gsus sindustries, Rockwell by Parra, Converse, moniquevanheist, and Nike. These companies then contributed by donating clothing and footwear in the form of samples, archival pieces and stock. A selection of these, complemented with pieces of second-hand and no-brand clothing have undergone a process of cutting out and reconstructing to become 11”x17” Sweaters and Invert Footwear. 11”x17” creates a network. It unites different categories of clothing and different values within fashion; an eclectic mixture of mid-market, second-hand, and high-end items.

The visual and textual reader published documents the first iteration of 11”x17”. It explores some of the questions that lie at the heart of the project through contributions by Lynn Berger, Pascale Gatzen, Ruby Hoette, Alexandra Landré and José Teunissen: What constitutes clothing a collection? To whom does a piece of clothing belong? What is the relationship between a fashion brand’s collection and the contents of the average wardrobe? What does it mean to cut into a garment? What happens when a piece of clothing consists of parts of multiple brands?

11”x17” is initiated by Elisa van Joolen (NL/ITA) is an artist and researcher based in Amsterdam. Merging the analytical with a hands-on process Van Joolen’s work investigates the current fashion system exploring and proposing new models of production and presentation. Her approach to clothing design is characterised by strategies of intervention and reconfiguration. Her projects often reflect specific social contexts and emphasise collaboration and participation. They expose relational aspects of clothing and subvert processes of value production. She lectures at the Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Amsterdam and Goldsmiths, University of London.


11”x17” is made possible through the generous financial support of Amsterdams Fonds voor de Kunst, Stichting Stokroos and Stimuleringsfonds Creatieve Industrie.

Text contributions:Lynn Berger Pascale Gatzen Ruby Hoette Alexandra Landré José Teunissen
Photography Invert Footwear and 11”x17” Sweaters:Blommers / Schumm
Photography launch 11”x17”: Gert Jan van Rooij
Text editing: Ruby Hoette
Image editing: Elisa van Joolen & Our Polite Society
Graphic design: Our Polite Society
Printing and lithography: Lecturis, Eindhoven, the Netherlands 


Onomatopee 95

Elisa van Joolen

Price: € 20,00    

ISBN: 978-94-91677-14-4
Stapled, visual and textual reader
104 pages, 24 pages full color

Text contributions:
Lynn Berger
Pascale Gatzen
Ruby Hoette
Alexandra Landré
José Teunissen


Photography Invert Footwear and 11”x17” Sweaters:
Blommers / Schumm

Photography launch 11”x17”: 
Gert Jan van Rooij

All other images: Elisa van Joolen

Text editing: Ruby Hoette
Image editing: Elisa van JoolenOur Polite Society
Graphic design: Our Polite Society
Printing and lithography: Lecturis, Eindhoven, the Netherlands

© Onomatopee 2011
Conversation Elisa van Joolen and Ruby Hoette @ Onomatopee
Conversation Elisa van Joolen and Ruby Hoette @ Onomatopee